19/03/10: After a journey of two hours from Mount Lavinia, Colombo, we were far far away from land. 20KM direct West to be exact. The sea seemed ominous with huge swells. Perhaps the world below was friendlier. It was, we soon discovered, when we rolled back into the warm tropical waters of Taprobane and sank gently into the arms of the great ocean. The visibility seemed limitless and soon a vast form gradually took shape beneath us, contrasting against the pristine white sand that seem to make this sea bed.

With a burgeoning sense of wonder, we sank deeper and deeper; finally touching down on what seemed to be amidships. Here the depth was 35 Meters. The sand below had to be at least 40 Meters. From both directions, and far away, the remnants of this massive ship seems to loom above our heads. For a moment the mind was confused. The two ends looked like the raised wings of a leviathan aircraft brought to life from the pages of a morbid tale of dark fantasy. But the moment of doubt was brief. Rationality prevailed over what was perhaps a slight bout of narcosis. This was nothing but a ship. A really big ship.

After the H.M.S Hermes in Batticaloa, this was the biggest ship we had ever seen in Sri Lanka. Perhaps it was even as large as the Hermes.

Then we faced a dilemma. To swim left or to swim right? The beguiling mountain far away to the left seem too irresistible We headed that way.

We were not disappointed.

The massive hulk of metal towered far above us like a mystical and mythical hillock of legend concealing many profoundly dark secrets. As we swam over the twisted and contorted debris, the mountain slowly took shape, unraveling its true self. This was clearly the derelict remnants of what was formally a bridge. Here, a long time ago, people had lived, dined and made elaborate plans for their destinies; seemingly invincible against the ravages of the seas and even foolishly harboring thoughts of complete mastery over nature. it was not so any longer.

A clear and unhindered swim through provided a path to the other side. The mild current we had swum against became stronger. Probably the compression effect of water gushing through the open cavities of the stern. Finally we swam through and reaching the sand below gazed back at the back of the stern in reverence. It was a sight to behold. The visibility was near perfect and the ship loomed majestically above us a full 10 meters high.

We swam over the keel towards the propeller. From a distance, by the shadow of the great ship, it had looked small. Yet now we realized how large it was. Two of the prop wings had sunk beneath the sand. Two remained and in great condition covered with colorful corals.

We swam back towards amidships rising over the gentle slope presented by the vast hull of this giant ship. A large shoal of Yellow Striped Snappers enveloped the wreck ahead of us. But we didn't have much time. At this depth the bottom time was limited. It was a cruel irony we had experienced in the sea again and again. Good things were simply hard to get at and the bow of the ship remained yet unexplored.

That had to wait.

Here, at the edge of mankind, this ship was not going to shed its secrets to us in just one dive.

It demanded many more.

And that... it will get. (See below for accounts of subsequent dives towards the bow)

Go blog about Colombo Diving!

13/03/2011: Towards the bow!

The anchor has dropped amidships. The same place we descended upon this large ship in the year before. Today we turn right towards the bow. An hitherto unexplored area.

The fish life is prolific as usual! A large shoal of snappers envelop the wreck like a protective yet pulsating cocoon. As we fight a gentle current and fin our way towards the bow we encounter trevally, a Napoleon and see a Stingray swim down on the sand. This ship seems endless. Huge cracks and crevices open up in areas where the hull has collapsed. This ship must be old. A fisherman said that this ship had been around when he started fishing in the late 60's. Research into past records have failed to prove conclusively as to what ship this could be. Is it the Perseus that sank 10 miles west of colombo in 1917? Or is it the Worcestershire? No one knows. Yet.

Finally! The giant bow area is in side. A strong up welling caused by the giant arc of the bow pushes us up. We fight our way down and finally kneel on the sand in front of the magnificent ship.

Taprobane North Wreck is a unbelievably beautiful and great place to be.

Here we feel blessed.

For this ship has moved our spirit.